Myanmar, like so many developing countries, has wonderful markets. Backlit. Dusty. Full of smoke and steam. And always full with charming locals willing to be my muse for a short while . . . Enjoy,
Lisa
I have to admit, I don’t actually remember the Christmas in these photos . . . . but these two photos bring back vivid memories of my childhood. No one has to tell me that this is my grandparent’s home in Dumas, Texas – on Maddox Avenue. I remember the lamps in the background – they were beige with orange and brown accents. Those same lamps – repainted in shades of blue – were still in their home when my grandfather passed away 20+ years later. I remember the texture of the sofa – nubby yet kind of velvety at the same time. That sofa is in so many photos, and memories, from my childhood – how could I possibly forget it? I remember how my grandfather smelled – classic Old Spice. And his scruffy cheeks at the end of a day. And oh so much more. . . .
I love these two photos. Me and my big brother and my big sister. And tinsel.
I wish you all joyous memories of Christmas’ past, present and future.
All my best,
Lisa
Sagaing is a small hill overlooking the Irrawaddy River outside Mandalay. But it’s no ordinary hill. . . . the slopes of this hill are covered with Buddhist monasteries and convents overflowing with young novices and experienced monks and nuns. In this post, I am focusing on the lovely women and girls – the nun and novices dressed in flowing pinks and oranges and the locals equally colorfully attired – and all full of smiles.
Enjoy, Lisa
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In 2009, I gave myself the gift a one-year sabbatical from my “day job”. I wanted to explore the world a bit, spend some time on a passion – photography. But primarily, I wanted some time to figure out what was really important to me.
That was 3 years, 4 months and 27 days ago.
Yes, I believe I am the luckiest girl around! I have been able to deeply experience 16 countries – and explore more of my own land. I fell in love with Southeast Asia – India, Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam – I keep going back . . . Europe – France, Italy, Spain; Morocco; Guatemala; East Africa – Kenya, Tanzania, Zanzibar; Russia; Cuba; the western US. I have had such amazing experiences. I have met the most amazing people. I look at the photographs I made and I remember the stories of each person – some happy, some sad – I remember how total strangers welcomed me into their lives. It has been a really wonderful time.
I have had the great honor to travel with, learn from, and bask in the glow of, some amazing photographers and teachers . . . Karl Grobl, Steve McCurry, Catherine Karnow, Sam Abell, Peter Turnley, Marco Ryan, Gavin Gough, Matt Brandon, Jay Dickman, Jay Kinghorn, Dave Harp, Bert Fox, Massimo Bassano, Julia Dean, Lorne Resnick, and Gerd Ludwig. I have had the opportunity to travel with so many amazing fellow photographers . . . so many that I can’t even begin to list them here. I thank you all for your wisdom, guidance, creativity, inspiration and support.
Finally, I think about what photography has become to me. It is the catalyst that initially drives me to get out in the world. To meet people. To interact with total strangers (whether I speak their language or not). To discover new places. To witness the daily and spiritual life of cultures so different from my own – and ultimately, to discover why we are all not so different from each other.
One of my favorite photographers actually says it best . . .
“The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera.”― Dorothea Lange
“While there is perhaps a province in which the photograph can tell us nothing more than what we see with our own eyes, there is another in which it proves to us how little our eyes permit us to see.” – Dorothea Lange
So, tomorrow, I go back to work. Admittedly, I have mixed feelings about it. I am looking forward to the challenges and intellectual stimulation – and, let’s face it – I am really looking forward to the paycheck. But I am mourning the loss of my flexibility.
The traveling and photography are definitely not coming to an end (nor is this blog) . . . I have much more to see (my bucket list must be carried in a tanker) and so very much more learn. So, I will continue to explore the world, camera in hand . . . because, it turns out, that is really important to me.
All the best,
Lisa
In February 2011, I wandered around the stupas that 
cover the hill from the little village of Indein to the Shwe Indein Pagoda. The stupas are in various states of deterioration. Crumbling. Overgrown with vegetation. Filled with years of dirt and soil that has blown in from open walls and ceilings.
I was there with a workshop led by Steve McCurry. He ensconced himself in the doorway of the stupa pictured here. Of course, we all wondered why and just had to go and see. Mounds of dirt surrounded the stupa. Climbing up was tricky as the dirt gave way under your feet. But reaching the top and entering the cramped doorway, I was rewarded with a large buddha head lit from above by a hole in the roof. The inside was filled with soil and roots from the trees and plants growing on top of the stupa. But the head appeared to be relatively undamaged and seemed to be laying there – disembodied – amongst the rocks and bricks from the crumbling stupa.
I returned to Indein in 2012. I had shown the images made in 2011 to a couple of photographer friends who wanted to see the disembodied buddha head in the stupa. Imagine our surprise and delight at finding that the stupa was being repaired – including removing debris that had collected inside – revealing a complete Buddha statute at least 8 feet tall. And Intact. So cool!
All the best,
Lisa
Shwedagon Pagoda is the most sacred of the Buddhist pagodas in Myanmar. Enshrined within are relics of 4 past Buddhas: the staff of Kakusandha, the water filter of Konagamana, a piece of the robe of Kassapa, and eight strands of hair of Gautama, the historical Buddha.
The gilded pagoda dominates the Yangon skyline, reaching 325 feet above the city from its location atop Singuttara Hill. The height was achieved over the life of the pagoda through additions and improvements made by the people of Myanmar and the country’s monarchs.
The gold of the stupa comes from real gold plates, covering a brick structure. The Myanmar people, as well as monarchs in its history, have donated the gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice of donating gold, begun in the 15th century by the Mon Queen Shin Sawbu, who is said to have given her weight in gold, continues today. The crown or umbrella is tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. The very top, the diamond bud, is tipped with a 76 carat diamond.
Over the years, Shwedagon Pagoda has been damaged by earthquakes, looted by invading armies, including the British who occupied the Pagoda under military control for 77 years until 1929. The Pagoda has been the site of political protests by the Myanmar people and is the place where, in 1946, General Aung San addressed a mass meeting, demanding “independence now” from the British. Forty-two years later, on August 26, 1988, his daughter, Aung San Suu Kyi addressed another mass meeting of 500,000 people at the stupa, demanding democracy from the military regime and calling for a second struggle for independence. The Pagoda was also central to the monk protests and uprising against the military regime in 2007.
Devotees walk around the stupa clockwise. The day of the week a person is born will determine their planetary post, at which they will pray. There are eight planetary posts for each day of the week (Wednesday is split into two days, a.m. and p.m.). They are marked by animals that represent the day, galon for Sunday (pictured below – my day is Sunday), tiger for Monday, lion for Tuesday, tusked elephant for Wednesday a.m., tuskless elephant for Wednesday p.m., mouse for Thursday, guinea pig for Friday and naga (mythical dragon/serpent) for Saturday. Each planetary post has a Buddha image and devotees offer flowers and prayer flags and pour water on the image with a prayer and a wish.
I was at Shwedagon in February 2011 and February 2012, at one point during the Shwedagon Pagoda Festival which ran from February 22 to March 7, 2012. This was the first time since 1988 that devotees were allowed to celebrate the festival at Shwedagon. Trust me, it was well attended by the Myanmar people, and celebrated with 24-hour-a-day music, chanting and prayer – and a plethora of neon lights the likes of which I have never seen.
There is some debate as to the age of the Pagoda, most historical records in Myanmar say it has existed for some 2500 years. If that is true – it is the oldest pagoda in the world. Whatever its age . . . Shwedagon Pagoda is a truly magical place. I so hope to return there soon.
All the best, Lisa
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Information sources: The Board of Trustees of Shwedgon Pagoda; Wikipedia
Little more than a main street with a few small streets branching out, Nyaung Shwe is most widely known as the jumping off point for tourist trips south into Inle Lake. But spend a little time there and you will be treated to a thriving fishing village with a lively “downtown”. We wandered out early one morning to this center of the village to find cafes and shops bustling with activity.
First we stopped in at the cafe above. Seeing that incredible wall as a backdrop, we waited a while for someone to sit in front of it . . . eventually, the proprietor of the cafe agreed to be our model.
Across the street, we wandered into a kitchen manned by young men busy preparing the days meals. This kitchen was one of those dreamy dim places, lit beautifully by a few hanging bare bulbs and sunlight bouncing in from the street. Lucky for us, the young men seemed to enjoy our presence and were happy to be our photographic subjects. I could have stayed in that kitchen for the whole day !
Finally, I will leave you with an image of one of the happiest, giggliest kids I have met in a while. Fascinated by my camera and seeing his image on the screen – he would let out peels of laughter and then stop suddenly for another photo. It is so fun when I can make someone happy like that just by doing what I love doing!
All the best,
Lisa
